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Engine Assembly, continued

28. With the rods and pistons mounted up, we're ready to install the rings.

29. We've selected Total Seals standard moly performance rings (not the zero gap style).

30. The first step is to check the top ring gap. Install the ring into the bore.

31. Use the piston/rod assembly upside down, to square the rin in the bore, about 2" down.

32.
Use feeler guages to determine the gap. We want a gap of 0.0045" per 4.00 inch bore. So for this motor it will be 4.030" x 0.0045" = 0.018-0.020" for the top ring. The second ring can be a bit tighter (multiply bore x 0.0035"). Because these rings are "file to fit" we will need to file open the gap to spec. It's always best to have slightly more gap then too little. The danger here is that as the motor heats up and the rings expanad, if the ends of the rings butt together, serious engine damage will occur.

33. Place a flat file in a vice, and then hold the ring as shown. Move the ring level, across the file. We only like to file one side of the gap, and move in one direction (pull the ring towards your body.) Re-check the gap every few strokes.

34. Due to minor variances in the bore diamter, it's important to keep the rings organized to the bore you checked them in.
While only the top ring typically needs to be file fitted, its important to check the second and two oil rails to make sure they are not defective or butting together.

35. Use a ring spreader tool to install the top and second rings in their grooves. Follow the manufacturers instructions for making sure the correct side faces up on the top and second rings! The oil rail and scraper are installed by hand.

36. Positioning the ring gaps is very critical. You dont want all the gaps on top of each other. In this photo we see the ideal gap positions based on Total Seals' instructions. The top and second ring grooves are staggared 180 degrees.

37. The expander-ring grove is lined up below the top ring groove.

38. The two oil scraper rings are staggered either side of the second-ring groove.

39. With the rings mounted and the grooves positioned properly, the piston and rod assembly is loaded into a piston ring compressor. Squirt some oil into the ring compressor to help the piston and rings slide out easier.

40. The piston tool is carefully squared on top the deck, and then the back of a hammer is used to knock the piston down the bore. The piston should slide into the bore easily, if it stops or hangs up, stop and pull the assembly and retry. It is very easy to hang a ring up on the edge of the bore and break it!

41. When the piston is fully in the cylinder bore, stop and guide the rod carefully over the crank journal while continuing to gently knock the piston down. Be carefull not to nick the polished crank journal with the rod end.
 

Build a 302 Stroker Series
Part I: Introduction and Prep.
Part II: Assembly
331 Stroker Track Results




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