4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks
Degreeing Modular Cams

Cole Cutler shows us some of the tools he has specially
modified to make degreeing easier at HCI Motorsports.
The solid lash adjuster here is akin to solid lifter on
a pushrod engine. This enables the cam to be set to zero-lash. |

A pair of followers (modified with larger holes) enables
Cole to set the lash on his modified adjusters with a
thin flat-blade screw driver. |

You can use a standard degreeing kit. The process is no
different than we've outlined in our Degreeing
Fundamentals however since there are two cams you
need to perform the process twice. Start on one side with
only one of the chains connected. Then move over to the
other side. |

If you find your measurements are off a few degrees from
the cam specifications the only easy way to make the adjustment
is with a set of Fidanza adjustable gears. We initially
set our to 1 degree retard to accommodate for slack in
the chain as a result of the slightly milled heads. We
subsequently moved this back to straight up as our degree
measurements were spot on with Comp Cams' cam card for
the 262 cam. |
4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks

The timing chain guides should be checked for wear and
replaced if neccesary. Cole shows us to look for uneven
chain rub on the plastic. On high-mileage motors the chains
should also be replaced. |

Chain tensioners must be compressed before attempting
to reinstall into position. Use a C-clamp to compress
the plunger, then push down the lever (top left) and install
a paperclip or small nail in the lock hole. |

The locked tensioner can then be bolted to the block and
released by pulling the pin out. Note the tensioners are
marked left and right. |

Safe Mode is when the crank key way is at 12 o' clock.
This puts all the pistons below deck. Top Dead Center
for cylinder #1 is located at about 11 o 'clock (note
the TDC mark cast into the cover.) |
As you can see the 4.6L 2V engine is complicated, but not necessarily
any more difficult to deal with than a pushrod Ford. In fact,
we have come to admit that changing cams on a overhead cam motor
is much easier than when the cam is in the block. There is no
need to remove the intake, or drain the oil and water for that
matter. Next month we'll get this motor into our Project '01
GT and reveal the power gains. 
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