Installing the Heads
We teamed up with Cole Cutler, CHI Motorsports' master engine builder. Under his expertise we're able to show you (and learn ourselves) the ins and outs of the 4.6L 2V. As you'll see it is not as daunting as it seems, and while we worked with the motor out of the car you can certainly perform the job under the hood. If you do plan to tackle a head swap with the motor in the car one tip is to pull the heads with the stock manifolds attached, then swap them over to the new heads before installing to the block. This will save from going under the car to remove the manifolds.

We sourced a bone stock 4.6L 2V from a local salvage yard. The car had just 7,800 miles before it was rear-ended and totalled out. We began by pulling the stock plastic intake. The injectors and fuel rails can all stay attached.	Tear down continues with removal of the valve covers followed by the timing cover and chains. This is a Romeo engine as evident by the 11 valve cover bolts per head and cam girdles. More on the differences between Romeo and Windsor engines on page 3.
The head bolts are removed and immediately thrown away. You can't reuse TTY (torque to yield) hardware so don't even try.	The stock heads can come off with the cams still bolted down. Once on the work bench you'll want to pull off the cam girdles and get the followers and lash adjusters as they will be reused.
We could have simply installed a new set of Ford torque-to-yield TTY head bolts (#F5AZ6065A) on this motor, but we opted for ArP studs (ARP# 256-4201 Buy Now) for added clamping force. Plus unlike TTY bolts the studs are reusable. At the time of writing this article ARP did not have head bolts developed for these motors.	These motors use multi-layered steel (MLS) head gaskets. The Ford pieces cost $159 each! The Fel-Pro 9790-PT2 more affordable choice at about $60 a piece. Coated with their PermaTorque coating it will also seal up much better. Unlike on pushrod Fords there is a distinct left and right side. Note the pistons are below deck. This is "safe mode" and is achieved with the crank key way placed straight up at 12 0' clock. This will be important in the cam installation phase to avoid bending valves.
4.6L 2V cylinder heads are not side specific, however the head you put on the driver-side of the motor must have this galley plug installed in the back. Otherwise you'll fire up with zero oil pressure and a big leak. Once you install the plug mark the heads (D for Driver side, etc.) so you don't accidentally install on the wrong side.	The underside of both heads must have this plug installed. Patriot installs this one for you, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
The springs supplied by Patriot are sufficient to .600" lift however we opted to run the springs recommended by Comp Cams (PN:26113-16). This spring works with all three of there Xtreme Energy cams for PI heads.	The cam caps are machined specific to each side of the cylinder head and cannot be interchanged. Mark them before you remove them so they go back in the exact same location and orientation.
Lower the heads onto the block and install the bolts, or in our case since we used studs, we'll install the washers and nuts. Use oil or moly under the heads to get a good torque reading. Note also that we have removed the cam "girdles" from the heads (caps for Windsor Engine Plant heads).Their locations are unique and cannot be interchanged along the head or between cylinder heads. Mark them before you remove!	Cole's tip when building any motor is to have both heads on the block and alternate your torqueing of the bolts/studs between both heads to get even stretch on the block. Work your way out from the inside pair of head bolts to the outside, in steps from 30lb.ft. to 50lb.ft. to the final spec. Remember if you do use the OEM TTY head bolts they MUST be new, and you have to follow the stretch specification outlined in the shop manual.