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Fabrication(continued)


Next, we removed all the wires for the keyless entry, door ajar warning system, and power mirrors. That left us with a nice pile of wires that we did not have to deal with. Now we started the process of installing the harness into the project door.
 
We started the temporary installation of the harness by connecting it to the switches in the door panel and then installing the door panel onto the vehicle. This provided a starting point for the harness placement.
     


All corrections or additions were done as we worked away from the factory connectors at the switch panel. The wires were massaged to lie in their new positions with the main bundle going forward and the other going toward the rear of the door. The main forward bundle would eventually find its way through the stock bellow.

 
A metal bracket was used to attach the main harness at the front of the door, keeping the harness away from the moving glass on the inside of the door. A second insulated, loop-type clamp was used to locate the harness to the outer side of the doo, this was simply attached to a protruding hinge-bolt.
     

It was obvious that the wires for the power window motors and the power door locks were well short of the required length. An additional hole was needed to allow the power window connector to be on the outside of the door yet behind the panel. Masking tape and wire ties were used to locate the wires in approximate locations.
 
Using wire of the same gauge and color, we fitted the wire in-line between the factory connectors to add additional length. The work done to this point was all performed on the driver's door and harness. You can easily see the additional length added to the yellow, white, and pink wires.
     

On the bench and using the left driver's side harness as a pattern, we duplicated the harness for the passenger side.
 
Once both harnesses were roughed out, the wire bundles were laid out neatly. Wrapping the wires tightly with electrical tape at random points made wrapping the entire harness much easier. We added wires for the door mounted speakers.
     

We wrapped the entire harness. The "dry vinyl wrap" shown is from Eastwood. Since the final length of the harness going through the cowl was not yet determined, an additional length was wrapped as a precautionary measure. It's easier to remove the harness tape and shorten the harness than to be forced into extending it.
 
Now that the wire harness was finished it was reinstalled one final time. Proper fit was checked and the snap-in-clips for locating sub-sections of the harness to the door were installed. These are the same clips that were removed from the original harness used in the Thunderbird. The clips were installed at various points using existing holes and fastened to the harness using friction tape just as they were by the manufacturer.

What's Coming Next?
In part two of this upgrade the Thunderbird door panels will be permanently attached to the mounting panels and then molded together as a unit. The doors will be prepped as needed and readied for paint. In an effort to provide mounting integrity, several pieces of sheet metal will be welded on to the door to provide a place for fasteners. Here is a preview.


Final fitment of both panels to their appropriate backings and to the
interior is complete.
 


The individual pieces will be prepped for permanent assembly.

     

A spray-on foam will be applied to the door panels at the top.
 
The foam will be carved and sanded until it is molded to fit the existing
contours of the interior.
     

With the contouring finished the foam will be covered with fiberglass and final prep for the new black vinyl covering will be concluded.
 
With our new found confidence we'll fabricate a matching custom center console.

   
 
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