Replacing a converter is not difficult, but requires dropping the AOD. If you've got access to a lift its obviously much easier. Otherwise jack the car as high as possible and support it on jackstands at the front and rear. Start by removing the h-pipe. Then support the tail of the transmission with a jack stand and remove the cross member. Before removing the driveshaft, its a good idea to drain the pan and replace the filter and gasket before continuing. This prevents a huge mess and saves some weight when you start to lower the transmission.


Check the pan and fluid for signs of a failing transmission. If you find dirty fluid, metal shavings, or bits of plastic, you should consider a rebuild. The increased torque and heat of the converter will quickly find any weaknesses in the transmission. Otherwise, clean the pan and slap on a new gasket and filter. Mike threw in some small magnets to catch any metal shavings.

You'll need to disconnect the shifter, TV cable and bracket, speedo cable, and wiring harness. Use flare wrenches to disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission. Remove the starter and inspection plate from the bell housing to access the torque converter to flexplate nuts. You'll need to turn the flexplate to access all the nuts (use a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt.) Finally remove the six bellhousing to block bolts, and lower the transmission down. You may need to jiggle it back and forth to get it to separate. Be sure to have a drain pan underneath the stock converter before you pull it out as it contains several quarts of fluid.


Before installing the new converter we replaced the front transmission and rear main seals for good measure. Simply pry them out with a screwdriver, and tap in a new one. Fill the new converter with a quart of fluid. AOD's use a Dextron II/III rated ATF fluid, C6 and C4's use Type F. Installing the converter requires some technique. Rotate the converter while pushing it forward, you feel and hear three clunks for each time it engages a shaft (The outer most shaft is the stator support, then the input shaft, and the 3-4 shaft.) The 3-4 shaft is usually the toughest to engage so be patient It MUST engage all three shafts. If it doesn't you will blow the front pump in the transmission the minute you fire up the motor...no joke.

After reinstalling the transmission and reconnecting all the cables, lines and brackets, fill the transmission with three or four quarts of fluid. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the fluid level and fill to the mark on the dipstick. Check that all the gears are functional and that there are no leaks before taking our for a road test. It's also a good idea to install a transmission cooler in line with the stock cooler in the radiator tank. High stall, non-lockup, converters generate more heat which can accelerate wear on the transmission. F/M

Sources: Emerald Torque Converters 2040 North Main St. # 16 Walnut Creek, CA 94596 Phone: 925-934-8070 Fax: 925-945-0650