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FORDMUSCLE.com FordMuscle Nav
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Axle Reinstallation Continued


211. Torque the 10mm drive shaft flange bolts to e the drive shaft flange bolts to 41 lb ft.		  
212. Due to having to push the brakes to put the car in natural to rotate the drive shaft to access the drive shaft flange bolts the rear calipers will most likely be compressed.
     

213. You are required to rotate the brake piston clockwise as you compress it at the same time, do to this challenge; the brake piston compression tool shown above is suggested. 		 
214. Once the calipers are compressed place the brake caliper onto the disc in the mounting locations, apply loctite to the caliper mounting bolts and install and finger tighten.
     

215. Torque the 15mm caliper mounting bolts to 76 lb ft.		  
216. Place the parking brake cable back into the parking brake mount and reinstall the retaining clip.
     

217. Reinstall the speed sensor and the speed sensor bolt, once the bolt is finger tight; lightly tap the speed sensor into place using the bolt as the guide. 		 
218. Torque the speed sensor bolt to 62 lb in.
     

219. Reinstall the panhard rod bolt cover. 		 
220. Now we'll reinstall the rear sway bar into the vehicle. Install the upper sway bar bolts and finger tighten them.
     

221. Now place the lower half of the sway bar into place, reinstall the mounting plates, and finger tighten the nuts. 		 
222. Torque the 15 mm lower sway bar bolts to 52 lb ft.
     

223. Torque the 15mm upper sway bar bolts to 85 lb ft.		  
224. Reinstall the wheels, Finger tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts. Jack the car up and remove the jackstands from beneath the car.

Your new gears will require a break in period to prevent damage caused by overheating. After driving the first 15-20 miles you must let the differential cool for 30-40 minutes before proceeding. Then take it easy on the gears for the first 500 miles during the break in period. Be sure to change your gear oil after the first 500 miles to remove any metal particles or phosphorus coatings that came off your new gear set.

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Posted by strtcar, 06/13/08 05:39am:
nice writeup, we did the same swap in a 06, went 12.80's with a 4.10 & 3000 stall, thats it.
Posted by ixtlan, 06/14/08 10:14am:
Our intent was to eliminate the hesitating off the light. Mission accomplished. Thanks for the Kudo's. Not a lot of S197 people here but hopefully they will increase. Rich Sr.
Posted by mrmustangman357, 06/16/08 08:03am:
you guys used thread sealer instead of loctite, got all the nomenclature wrong (crush seal?? ? ?), and basically made it a huge effort for something simple to do. Have you guys ever done gears before?
Posted by ixtlan, 06/16/08 04:22pm:
Actually we used Loctite see pic 101. We hoped you didnt notice the few pics with the sealer. Our mistake we did correct. And Crush Seal was something we missed in the article editing. We use seal and sleeve a few times here and there. We will try to get Jon to correct the nomenclature errors. Hey it was a lot of work to write, and long nights. Sorry MM357
Posted by THEBOB, 06/17/08 06:42pm:
I like the article, but why the heck does an 05 have that much rust?! I really don't think that's okay, even if it isn't dangerous, it's still poor workmanship on Ford's part. Zinc plating, powder-coating, galvanizing, or simply higher quality paint are employed by other manufacturers to prevent this; step your game up Ford!
Posted by ixtlan, 06/19/08 03:43am:
Jon thanks for makin the corrections. Your the best. Rich Sr
Posted by mrmustangman357, 07/17/08 12:03pm:
good writeup now that nomenclature is corrected.
Posted by MeanStang08, 08/10/08 05:59am:
I have been looking for 2 weeks for this detailed of a write-up for a S197 - EXCELLENT work guys, and without the use of specialty 8.8 tools. everything on My 08 is coated, i was suprised to see all that rust too, i went right out and crawled underneath mine to make sure i was remembering correctly. Glad to see you went with the RTV and not the paper gasket for the housing cover also. again, Great Job guys. now if only my 4.10 FRPP pinion had a MHD shim offset number marked on it, i'd be golden. lol
Posted by dacofa, 07/26/09 08:27am:
Yet another example of working on other projects and time consuming articles when my Mustang was sitting there for over a year waiting to be finished by your shop.
Posted by PonyGirl1969, 11/23/09 08:00pm:
Hammer mechanic workmanship. Probably howling already. But then you'd have to drive it more then a few miles each day. Didn't use proper tools and tries to pass it off as professional. Greasy garage work. Do it right or do it again.
Posted by dacofa, 11/23/09 08:09pm:
Spent more time taking pictures about BS details then using of proper tools, IE Differential Spreader for proper preload and shim setup instead of beating it in.
Posted by rickyracer, 02/02/10 02:36pm:
Only reason you took the rearend out, is because it's easier hammer on it. Any real pro would do it still in the car. Less time consuming, less parts to remove, housing is held in place by suspension, no chance of messing up the brake system, which on ABS is easy to do to. It's called the KISS method.
Posted by dacofaII, 08/25/10 06:31pm:
This is the best tech article I've seen of how not to do it. Your picture 213 of the disc brake special tool and "suggested" to use the proper tool is just another example of a hammer wanna be mechanic. After having it done by professionals and showing them this tech article, after they stopped shaking their heads, they commented, "that's where we get lots of business form is fools like this doing it at home, thinking they know what they're doing".
Posted by coolreed, 10/05/11 10:08am:
Great Article on a Ring and Pinion Swap. One of the best I have ever seen. Great Job.
Posted by my96gt, 05/20/12 07:11am:
Good article on this gear swap, I am going to be doing this later this week on my 96 GT. and I am sure some of this info will come in handy!


 


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