To keep things clean the switch wire was mounted flush
along the upper fender well.
This two-hole switch panel was a perfect fit for the cab
of our F250 even though we only needed one switch at this
time.
Next, we connected the switch wire to one of the poles
on the switch. The right hand duckbilled switch shown
mounted is not used.
Now we needed to make up a wire to connect from a 12 Volt
key-on source over to the other pole on the switch.
The terminal bay shown here is a low current 12 Volt Key-On
source. Once connected to the switch it was ready to trip
the relay and allow power to the other pole.
With the ignition key on and the switch activated we tested
for voltage at the "outflow" pole on the relay.
Now that our switch was working, it was time to break
out the lights. Here's a close up.
As we mentioned, these lights would be better mounted
on top of the bumper for our 4x4 application. For now
we took advantage of some pre-drilled holes on the bottom
of the bumper and mounted both in place with included
hardware.
Next it was on to wiring the lights themselves. We doubled
up this 16 gauge wire with a large ring terminal and shrink
sleeving.
The wires were then connected to the "outflow"
pole of the relay.
One wire was routed to the driver's side lamp.
The other was routed to the passenger side lamp.
Good grounds were created on the shackles using a wire
wheel and drill bit.
Here one of the ground wires is being secured.
The driver's side final connection is made.
The passenger side final connection is also made.
With the key on the new auxiliary light switch is tripped.
They sure are brighter than the stock lamps.
Conclusion
While this article focused on a supplementary lighting application
on a 4x4, the most important thing to take away is the manner
in which we went about powering the lights. As mentioned in
the page one sidebar, the electrical setup used can be incorporated
with a number of different high load power accessories besides
lights. Consider it for electric fans, winches, etc.
To keep things clean the switch wire was mounted flush
along the upper fender well.
This two-hole switch panel was a perfect fit for the cab
of our F250 even though we only needed one switch at this
time. 
Next, we connected the switch wire to one of the poles
on the switch. The right hand duckbilled switch shown
mounted is not used. 
Now we needed to make up a wire to connect from a 12 Volt
key-on source over to the other pole on the switch.
The terminal bay shown here is a low current 12 Volt Key-On
source. Once connected to the switch it was ready to trip
the relay and allow power to the other pole.
With the ignition key on and the switch activated we tested
for voltage at the "outflow" pole on the relay.
Now that our switch was working, it was time to break
out the lights. Here's a close up.
As we mentioned, these lights would be better mounted
on top of the bumper for our 4x4 application. For now
we took advantage of some pre-drilled holes on the bottom
of the bumper and mounted both in place with included
hardware. 
Next it was on to wiring the lights themselves. We doubled
up this 16 gauge wire with a large ring terminal and shrink
sleeving. 
The wires were then connected to the "outflow"
pole of the relay.
One wire was routed to the driver's side lamp.
The other was routed to the passenger side lamp.
Good grounds were created on the shackles using a wire
wheel and drill bit.
Here one of the ground wires is being secured.
The driver's side final connection is made.
The passenger side final connection is also made.
With the key on the new auxiliary light switch is tripped.
They sure are brighter than the stock lamps.