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Front Spring and Strut Installation (continued)
There are two methods
to replacing late-model Mustang front springs. One is
to disconnect the strut at the spindle and let the front
of the a-arm swing down, allowing the spring to be uncompressed
and pulled out. We've performed this method in the past
and while it results in quick spring removal, it makes
for a tough install because the new spring wants to
jump out as the a-arm is jacked back into place.
Welding a tab on the a-arm solves this problem, but
not many have access to a welder. (See
our article "How
to Lower your Mustang" in the Suspension section
of the Tech Department)
The other method, which we used for this article, is
to remove the two a-arm to k-member attaching bolts.
This allows the a-arm to drop down, still connected
to the spindle and strut. The spring drops out harmlessly.
It takes two jacks to get the new spring and a-arm back
into place, but the process is very manageable. We've
outlined it here for you.
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Remove the swaybar end links then disconnect the outer
tie rods from the spindle. We do this by backing off the
castellated nut, then smacking it with a heavy hammer.
Un-torque the large a-arm to frame (k-member) mounting
bolts. Leave the bolts in for now and remove just
the nuts (in board of the a-arm.) An impact wrench
makes life easier here.
With both nuts removed, place a jack under the a-arm.
You'll need to adjust the amount of load from the
jack in order to take tension off the bolts, enabling
them to be pulled or tapped out.
Once the bolts are removed, the jack can be lowered carefully,
and the spring will drop out. There is little to no risk
in this method of the spring still having tension when
the arm is fully lowered.
A comparison of the stock and Eibach Pro-Kit springs.
Note we are also replacing the rubber isolators
with new Energy Suspension polyurethane pieces.
The Eibach spring is about 3/4" shorter in
height.
The "pig tail" end of the spring sits in the
a-arm. Position the end of the spring between the two
drain holes in the seat of the arm (not visible in this
photo.) 
With the spring seated between the a-arm and upper
k-member seat, the jack is slid back under the inside
edge of the control arm.
We've found that two jacks, one inboard and the
other under the outer edge of the a-arm, keeps the
spring and arm from walking outward, losing alignment
with the bolt holes. 
Once the a-arm is aligned with with the mounting
holes in the k-member, slide the bolts into place
and torque to 150 ft.lbs. The first side typically
takes longest as you learn how to jack the arm up
evenly.
Reconenct the tie rod, and move to the other side.
It's best to wait on connecting the sway bar endlink
until both sides are completed. 