In stock form our '93 Cobra measured 26 3/4"
from the ground to the fender. With over 3"
of gap above the tire, this car may qualify as a
4x4 in some parts of the country! |
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The installation process begins with jacking the front
of the car and supporting with jack stands under the k-member
or frame rails. |
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With the wheels removed, the calipers to spindle
bolts are removed. |
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The brake calipers are positioned out of the way as shown.
This is a good time to peform a brake job, however we'll
address that in an upcoming article. |
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We replaced the struts first. Stock struts have a slot
to hold the rod stationary while nut is removed. |
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Place a jack under the a-arm and jack it slightly
to load the arm. Then remove the two strut-to-spindle
bolts. |
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The strut is now free to slide out from under the
fender well. Do not remove the jack at this point,
otherwise the spring may pop out.
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Remove the dust cover and travel limiter bushing
from the old strut. |
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Transfer the stock bushing and dust cover to the
new strut. If either piece looks worn or cracked
now is the time to obtain a replacement. |
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We found the nice yellow Koni paint to be a little
thick, prohibiting the strut from fitting over the
spindle flange. A quick pass with a file solved
the problem. |
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Feed the new strut in place from under the fender.
Locate the mounting flange on the spindle and torque
the bolts to 120 ft.lbs. |
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Attach the upper strut bushing and retaining nut.
The supplied Koni adjustment knob is used to tune
the dampening rate. The knob is not left on the
strut (store it in the glove box.) |
