| Part 
                        I: Shortblock Assembly | 
                     
                      |  4. 
                        We also enlarged the oil holes in the main bearings so 
                        they matched up with the passages in the saddles. Out 
                        of the box the bearings cover nearly a third of the passage. 
                        We'll install restrictors in the heads only, to limit 
                        the amount of oil going to the rockers.
 |  5. 
                        After thoroughly cleaning the block with hot water and 
                        soap, and blowing out all the passages with compressed 
                        air, we began assembly.
 We went with ARP main studs for added security in keeping 
                        the crank spinning true.
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                      |  6. The 
                        first step is to install the crank and check for adequate 
                        main bearing clearance, using Plastigage.
 |  7. 
                        Install the crank, place a strip of Plastigage on one 
                        or more main journals, and install and torque the main 
                        caps to spec.
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                      |  8. 
                        Remove the main caps carefully, and measure the width 
                        of the compressed Plastigage using the provided gauge. 
                        Ours measured 0.0030", exactly where we wanted it. 
                        Stock engines are closer to 0.0018"- 0.0020", 
                        however for a performance engine, shoot for 0.0020" 
                        - 0.0030" to reduce friction and increase horsepower.
 |  9. 
                        Use the Plastigage to also measure rod bearing clearance. 
                        Shoot for 0.0018"-0.0025."
 If your clearances don't meet specifications (too tight 
                        or too loose) contact your machine shop to figure out 
                        the best solution. A crank that is too tight can be cut 
                        or polished to achieve proper clearance. If its too loose, 
                        you may be able to go to the next over sized bearing.
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                      |  10. 
                        We like to install the cam shaft before anything else. 
                        Use plenty of moly.
 |  11. 
                        Without the crank and pistons in the way, you can easily 
                        reach down through the block and guide the cam in place.
 | 
                     
                      |  12. 
                        We've decided to run a Crane mechanical with 248 degrees 
                        duration at 0.050" and 0.587" lift, on both 
                        intake and exhaust. With the Edelbrock heads we'll be 
                        running, and a single plane intake, the cam should be 
                        a torque monster, good to about 6800 rpm.
 |  13. 
                        The next step is to install the rear main seal. The FE 
                        rear main seal has six pieces. Two rubber/steel core halves, 
                        and then two side pieces which are wedged in with steel 
                        pins.
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                      |  14. 
                        Install the other half of the rear main seal in the main 
                        cap. Use a couple dabs of silicone RTV on the mating ends 
                        of the seal.
 |  15. 
                        Place the lower half of the main bearing shells in place. 
                        Use moly on the crank side only.
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                      |  16. 
                        The crank is carefully laid in place.
 |  17. 
                        Install the rear main cap, and then slide in the rubber 
                        side pieces. These can be tough to install, it helps to 
                        spray them with silicone spray lubricant.
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