| Installation
- Equal Length Headers |
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1
The stock 5.0 headers have severe restrictions and bends, reducing
the tube to less than 1" in some places.. The Dynomax equal
lengths improve flow dramatically with smooth bends and larger
1 5/8" tubes. |
2
The transition from the head to the header is very smooth with
the Dynomax. Many other aftermarket headers have rough edges and
welding flash hanging into the tubes. |
3
The Dynomax header come complete with high quality
composite gaskets (not paper), bolts, and instructions. |
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| 4
The first step is to spray the old old header bolts
with WD-40. Ours had never been removed before and we didn't want
to risk breaking one off in the head. |
5
Remove the plugs and wires. On the passenger side you'll
need to remove the intake hose.... |
6..and
mass air meter. We found it easier to remove the bracket which
holds the mass air meter to the shock tower. |
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| 7
It also helps to move some of the smog hoses and vacuum lines
out of the way on the passenger side. |
8
With the car secured on jack
stands, remove the 5/8" nuts which hold the h-pipe to the
headers. The h-pipe does not need to be removed to install the
new headers. |
9
Loosen the header bolts. Note our engine still had the lift brackets.
Don't reinstall these with the new headers. |
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| 10
With all the bolts out, the header can be removed. Shown here
is the drivers side. |
11
The dipstick tube needs to be removed in order for the new headers
to go in. Unbolt the nut which secures the tube to the head, and
the tube will pull out with a slight twist. |
12
One
drawback to equal lengths is their tight fit. You'll have to jack
the engine up slightly to gain enough clearance between the head
and shock tower to allow the header to slip in between. |
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| 13
It's not as difficult as it looks; remove the single nut on the
motor mount, and jack the engine so it tilts over. Use a block
of wood between the block and pan.
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14
With the driver's side header and gasket installed, replace the
dipstick. Clean the end of any oil and use RTV. |
15
Use the bolts and lock washers
provided to secure the header to the head. |
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| 16
The
old passenger side header comes out the same way.
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17
You'll need to jack the engine over slightly to fit passenger
side header as well. |
18
With the headers installed, be sure to replace the plugs and
wires in the correct firing order. Check that the motor mount
and h-pipe nuts were replaced.
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Ford
was on the right track when they introduced tubular headers and
dual exhausts on the first 5.0 Mustangs. However the factory systems
still fell short in performance, as they were designed to minimize
sound and emissions, rather than maximizing performance. Consequentially
it didn't take long for the aftermarket to realize there were
substantial horsepower gains to be had through better headers,
h-pipes, and cat-back systems. On a stock 5.0 engine upgrading
to shorty headers and a 2.5" cat-back will yield in the neighborhood
of 15 - 20 rear wheel horsepower. However the real benefit of
a free-flowing exhaust system comes when you start improving on
the induction end of the motor. A good 2.5" h-pipe and cat-back,
teamed with a set of shorty headers, will handle near 400 horsepower;
which means as you upgrade things like the intake, cam, and heads,
your exhaust system will be able to handle the additional output.