
The included WOT throttle switch uses the same type of
bracket used for mounting the fuel and nitrous solenoids. |
|

I planned to mount the WOT switch and bracket on the rear
driver's side carburetor stud. Turns out I needed a longer
stud to make it work. I pulled the carb and added a single
1-1/2" carb stud in this location. |
|
|
|

It wasn't pretty but it was solid. The bracket required
a good twist and turn to work. You can see that at WOT,
the carb linkage would make contact with the WOT switch
arm. |
|

Remember this shot from the bottle heater section? The
paired red and white wire from the primary arming switch
would come into play now. |
|
|
|

Here's the pair routed from the console and just above
the passenger floor board. |
|

I threaded the white wire through the firewall and headed
for the WOT switch. |
|
|
|

This shot shows the white wire from the primary arming
switch attached to "Post 4" on the WOT switch.
The
red wire from the primary arming switch was connected
to a 12V Key On terminal on my auxiliary terminal block. |
|

Now it was time to wire the fuel and nitrous solenoids.
Neither solenoid had specific polarity. Either wire on
each solenoid can serve as that solenoid's ground wire. |
|
|
|

I joined one wire from each solenoid together with a single
wire and ring terminal for grounding on the engine block. |
|

Here I found a suitable firewall location for the included
and necessary relay. |
|
|
|

I made up this red wire to run from "Post 1"
on the WOT switch... |
|

...to "Post 1" on the relay. |
|
|
|

Next, I joined the two remaining solenoid wires for a
run to "Post 3" on the relay. |
|

The relay needed 12V straight from the battery. |
|
|
|

That same 12V wire required a 30 amp fuse. |
|

The now fused 12V battery wire was connected to "Post
5" on the relay. |
|
|
|

I made up a ground wire for the relay... |
|

...and connected it to "Post 2" on the relay.
I used the same engine block ground location that I used
for grounding the solenoids. |
|
|
|

With basic wiring done, it was time to test the solenoids.
Agani, no need for the nitrous bottle to be opened or
the car to be running. |
|

With the key in the on position and the primary arming
switch on, I manually depressed the WOT switch and confirmed
that both solenoids opened up. The "click" was
easily identifiable. |

The Mallory box specifies this violet wire originating
from the connector shown as the RPM window switch wire.
The Mallory box is a "ground" based system.
This means, the switch is active when it is grounded.
Confusing? Let's show you how easy it is. |
|

I temporarily ran this long red wire (the one I connected
to the violet wire in caption 1) outside the car and toward
the firewall mounted relay I worked with in the previous
wiring section. |
|
|
|

I pulled the relay grounding wire from "Post 2"
that I had made up in the previous wiring section... |
|

...and simply replaced it with the single RPM window switch
wire from the Mallory HyFire ignition box. |
|
|
|

For testing purposed, I set the RPM window switch to activate
a 1500RPM and shut off at 2000RPM. |
|

With the motor running, I slowly ran the throttle from
idle to 2500 RPM while manually depressing the WOT switch.
I clearly heard two clicks, the sign of a safe nitrous
system. |