Lokar Throttle Cable Conversion (continued).

If you need to cut your cable housing down in length mark it as shown. Don't ever run a straight length of housing between the firewall and bracket, give it an extra 2 inches to make an "S" shape which allows the housing to have some adjustability and flex. In our case the sweeping curve around the motor is plenty.	Remove the housing from the engine bay and cut with a fine tooth hacksaw. Do not attempt to cut the inner cable at the same time.
Slide the cut end of the housing into the supplied ferule. Then reinstall the housing between the firewall and throttle bracket.	From under the dash feed the cable through the housing. Secure the clevis end of the cable pedal arm using the supplied c-clip.
Pull the cable through the throttle bracket adjuster and cut to length one inch beyond the end fitting.	Insert the cable into the end fitting and secure with the allen set screw.
Install a double set of throttle return springs just like you would on a solid linkage system. You cannot risk a stuck open throttle under any circumstance!	Once the slack is adjusted out of the cable the upper arm to which the clevis attaches will be pulled up against the firewall when the throttle is closed. You can install the accelerator pedal pad at the height you prefer off the floor.
Installation of the pedal covers is a nice aesthetic touch. The factory covers are simply pried off.	Place the brake or clutch cover over the corresponding pedal and mark one of the holes with a center punch.
Drill one of the holes and secure the pad to the pedal with one of the supplied screws. Then drill the other hole.	Secure the pedals using the supplied recessed allen screws and nuts. Use the 3M Adhesive (included) to stick the rubber pads into their grooves.
The end result is a super-smooth operating throttle pedal, along with fantastic looks under the dash.