Installation - Crane Sportsman Shaft-Mounted Rocker Arms
As you've probably now understand, the Sportsman or Pro-Series shaft rockers are not meant to be a set of bolt-on rocker arms. Though they can be used on a mild performance street/strip car, and surely they will last forever, the maximum gains come with very big camshafts (.650" is puny!) and stiff spring pressures (250 seat and 600 open or greater). As a result installation does require careful setup and consideration regarding valve train components and geometry. Installing the shaft rockers is not difficult, but it is also not a simple bolt-on affair as out-of-the-box small-block Ford heads will require some modification. Certainly the valves will need to be changed in most heads, as Crane designed the rockers assuming most guys will run a 0.100" taller valve due to the high spring pressures required with big solid roller cams.

Shown is one cylinders worth of hardware from Crane's Sportsman shaft-mounted rocker arms. We're using part number 44808-1 which is a 1.6:1 advertised ratio, for aftermarket SBF heads with standard valve centerlines.	The first steps are to check for proper rocker arm and head geometry. Bolt a shaft mount stand to any intake/exhaust pair on the head using the supplied 12-pt fasteners (torque to 65lb.ft.) Note the cutout in the stand is positioned facing the valves.
Place the supplied dummy rocker arm (geometry check tool) on a shaft and install onto the stand. Secure the shaft with the supplied T-45 Torx™ bolts. Unless your cylinder head has different length intake and exhaust valves, or the stud bosses have been milled previously, you only need to check one valve at any one cylinder.	With the check tool rocked back so the dowel is resting on the stand, measure the clearance between the check tool and valve stem. The ideal clearance is 0.030". Less clearance will require use of the supplied .050" or .100" shims beneath the stand. Excessive clearance requires using a taller valve, lash cap, or milling the stud pads. We found a 0.100" taller valve is required on most popular aftermarket SBF heads.
Once the geometry on the head is verified the rockers can be prepared and installed. Start by installing the pushrod adjusting screws into each rocker arm. Use the supplied assembly lube on the threads.	The pushrod screw need to be threaded completely up in to the body then backed out one turn to ensure the oil hole lines up with the galley in the body. In no circumstance should the screw be adjusted out of the body more than two revolutions. Oil restrictors should not be used in the lifter galleys.
Secure the pushrod seat with the supplied 12-point jam nut and washer. Torque to 24lb.ft.	Install one snap-ring onto the center groove in each of the eight rocker arm shafts. Use a pair of quality snap-ring pliers and avoid scarring the shaft surface.
The exhaust (left) and intake (right) rocker arms are different as shown here and cannot be interchanged as in a conventional stud mount rocker kit.	This photo shows the proper rocker spacer shim orientation. The dark 0.180" thick shim should go to the right of each intake rocker arm.
The shafts are secured to the stands with T-45 Torx fasteners. The shorter 1" fastener goes in the middle shaft hole. Torque to 65lb.ft.	The proper pushrod length is key to making this set up achieve maximum power and durability. The kit includes two push rod checking tools (302 and 351 deck heights.) Only use these with low-tension checking springs or with the valves closed, they will break under full spring pressure.
The proper pushrod length is achieved when the roller tip is slightly inboard of the valve stem centerline when the valve is closed. The roller tip should travel slightly outboard at mid-lift and back towards center at full lift.