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Radiator Mounting (continued)
Once the belt routing was figured out we were able to make big progress on finishing up the blower mounting. First off we had to mount and plumb the radiator. Due to the electric fan and four core radiator there was interference between the large crank pulley and fan motor. We could have searched for a thinner fan, or stepped back to a three core radiator, but we did not want to sacrifice cooling. This setup has worked very well to cool the naturally aspirated 331 motor and we anticipate it will remove the additional heat adequately.

Our solution was to mount the radiator as far back as possible. On early Mustangs the radiator mounts in front of the core support. The tabs on the core support are stamped outward and actually place the radiator 1/2" in front of the lower cross member. We trimmed the mounting flange on the radiator so it could be fit behind the core support, gaining nearly 3/4".


We cut down the radiator flanges so the unit could fit behind the core support mounting tabs. We fabricated two brackets to secure the radiator in its new location.
 
By moving the radiator back we gained a comfortable 1/2" between the fan motor and blower pulley. We may have been able to find a thinner fan, but this modification spares us the expense.
     

We politely asked our neighborhood parts store manager if we could browse the radiator hose aisle. Five minutes later we came up with the perfect pre-moulded hose to connect our water pump and radiator. We haven't a clue what the original application is. A tip - bend a coat hanger into the shape and length you need and take it with you to ease finding the right hose.
 
The chrome upper radiator hose included in the 87-93 5.0L Vortech kit will actually fit our needs just fine once a few inches is hacked off. As mentioned in Part I, we replaced the early style thermostat housing with a 5.0L 90-degree style to allow the hose to clear the supercharger bracket.
     
 
Boost Referenced Fuel Pump
Perhaps the most critical area of any power adder installation is addressing the fuel system. There are two factors to consider; volume and pressure. We first need to obtain a pump capable of supplying adequate volume for the gross horsepower our engine will make. To properly come up with this figure requires a good estimate of the power the engine will make, the efficiency of the engine or BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption), and the pressures at which the pump will operate. We did not spend the time calculating these numbers. We simply purchased the highest flowing Carter mechanical pump we could find (120 gallons per hour at 8 psi) and modified it to work under boost. On a super or turbo charged engine the fuel pressure must rise proportional to boost, otherwise the increase in pressure will prevent fuel from entering the carburetor bowls.

To perform this modification we simply reference a mechanical fuel pump diaphragm to boost pressure as outlined below. This is a very simple way to setup a fuel system on a carbureted supercharged engine. It will support around 550 horsepower and 10-12 lbs. of boost pressure. Any more than that and you must step up to a high pressure and volume electrical pump. These are considerably more difficult to setup as you need a return/bypass line from the pump back to the fuel tank, as well as a boost referenced pressure regulator.


We'll modify this Carter 120gph mechanical pump so it puts out pressure proportional to boost. Note the pump comes with a vent hole which allows the inside of the pump to equalize to atmospheric pressure.
 
Peeking behind the diaphragm reveals the port hole to atmosphere. If we attach a vacuum line connected to the carb inlet the pump will pressurize in reference to boost pressure.
     

We drilled through the opposite side of the boss to make attaching the vacuum line easier. We'll plug the factory hole on the other side.


We pressed in a brass vacuum nipple as shown.
     

The pump is reassembled and checked for leaks by applying vacuum. This effectively simulates boost pressure.
 
Next will drill and tap our carb hat so the pump is referenced to boost pressure. We do not want to attach the fuel pump to the an intake vacuum source.
     

Using silicone sealer we secure the hose barb to the carb hat.
 
The vacuum line connects the carb hat to the fuel pump. The pump will now increase pressure 1 psi per 1 lb. of boost above the base pressure of 8psi. So with 6 lbs of boost we should see 14 psi of fuel pressure. We are not using a regulator.



(Oiling System)
 
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